Of course I got sent to the coldest aimag in the whole country!
I have been placed in a little soum in the aimag (province) of Zavkhan; in the Northwestern region of the country. Tsagaankahirkhan was founded in 1931 and has approximately 1500 people making up ~410 families. The soum is 45 kilometers from the aimag center, but nevertheless takes roughly an hour (sometimes 2) to get there. This might sound crazy, but there are only 3 paved roads in the entire country, hence why it takes a bit longer than one might think. The aimag as a whole is known for having some of the most varied landscape and terrain; everything from lush valleys and hills, snowy peaks to steppe to lakes surrounded by sand dunes and desert. My particular soum is in a valley of mountains from a mountain in my backyard to some a further distance away. For those of you familiar with the mountain at the end of Topanga Canyon & the 118, a lot of the mountains remind of that one. We also have a small stream running through town which is actually where I fetch water from on a daily basis and once winter hits I will have to pick through the ice to get water!
Just a side note on weather: Mongolia has some of the most unpredictable weather possible. This past week has been shorts & t-shirt warm, but it is now currently hailing inside my ger.
Anyways, I’m the first Peace Corps Volunteer/foreigner to serve in my soum which is both exciting and daunting. I certainly have my work cut out for me for the next two years. My site is what is considered a fly sight, meaning it’s to a far distance from the capital of Mongolia to drive. (Anything over 12 hours of driving is considered a fly sight typically). On Saturday, August 18 I flew from Ulaanbaatar (UB) to Uliastai (the capital of Zavkhan) which took about 2 hours. I forgot to mention that Zavkhan is the coldest aimag in the country, which became apparent when I arrived and it was 10 degrees cooler than it had been in UB. Another 2 hours or so later and I finally arrived in my soum, where I was instantly greeted by a myriad of different people who grabbed all my bags and quickly escorted me into my ger and home for the next 2 years. Before, I even had a chance to take everything in I was being handed a cup of milk tea and a blue scarf that I was to drink and then pass to the person standing next to me. (This is a typical Mongolian tradition)I was then able to sit down where I was next presented with a pair of Mongolian shoes, a keychain, and something else that I’m still not quite sure what it is for. My shoes are actually pretty sweet and they fit just perfectly.
After my greeters pointed out all the different items in my ger and showed me around the khashaa I finally had a moment to breathe and explore things a little on my own. First off, I noticed they already had a fire going for me when I walked in which was a nice treat considering the temperature difference. My ger has 6 walls, so it’s huge! Mongolian gers are typically 4 or 5 walls, but Kazak gers can sometimes be 15 or 16 walls and since I’m in the more Western region (closer to the Mongolian Kazak’s) my ger is a little bigger than some of my fellow PCVs. I also lucked out with an oven provided by my HCA (Host Country Agency) and I was built a brand new, private outhouse, which might sound silly, but I’m quite thankful for.
That first night it rained which was a little unnerving, because I have a huge hole in the top of my ger that can only partially be covered when you have a fire going, because the chimney needs an outlet, but my supervisor and her daughter came to my rescue & showed me how to remove the chimney and pull the ger flap over the hole.
All in all, I made it to site and survived our first 3 months in Mongolia. It’s only just beginning, but I think it’s gonna be a wild ride. Moving on to the next post and my first 2 weeks at site.
Holy cow! I can’t believe it’s already been 3 months! I also can’t believe you live in a tent and have an outhouse! I hope you’re enjoying everything and adjusting as best as possible to peeing in an outdoor shed. So good to get an update from you!
Hi Mariel, I miss you so much. Thanks for the great blog. Everything sounds so exciting. Your ger looks fabulous . I think it so sweet that you were given shoes, they look awesome. I am sure everyone adores you, you should be very proud. The sky looks so blue in your background pictures . I bet even the plane rides are frightening . What an adventure for you. We are going to mammoth today for the weekend to camp. Yes, I will be on the ground in a tent. Oy, my arthritis is already aching , but it’s so much fun to do once a year. I love the mountains, and I love to hike. Last year there were bears in our campground , oy. Be well, Huge kisses, Love, Janet
Sent from my iPad
Hi Mariel, I just love hearing from you. I had been wondering how things were going, and I’m so glad you finally made it to your aimag. I can imagine the newness and mystique of thoughts and emotions you must be having as you enter a whole province, let alone a whole new culture. I’m happy you were received with such warmth. Hopefully the people and the culture don’t have the invisible barriers that are here stateside, so it makes your time there more enjoyable but more easy to do your work. I can’t wait to hear what kinds of projects and things you’ll be working on. Your ger looks so fascinating. There are so many contrasts. You have all that space and yet it’s a sparsely furnished. I love the color on the inside, and yet such vast desert outside. I think of the winters and I wonder if the people there have rituals they keep, especially staying warm. I’m guessing a lot of meditation will help. Keep writing when you can, and I promise to keep sending good vibes across the miles. Stay strong, and stay positive. Hugs galore from Seattle. Sorry I don’t have any dirty jokes for you this time. Let me know if you ever need a care package from seattle. Hugs times 10!!!
Wow Mariel I am in awa of your experience. Thank you for sharing such a unique experience and journey.
Leslye
I have been following your great story as promised. Stan from the coffee shop in Seattle….
Mariel, I think of you often… this is a far cry from the comforts of Seattle and the Starbucks days. I came across your website this morning and I was really excited to read about your adventure. I look forward to reading more… Alan